London Collections: Men delivered its failsafe mixture of styles and aesthetics and what have yous that have become signature of the hodgepodge life in the capital. Filtering through all the looks is no mean feat. However, I have narrowed it down to my top three favourites based on a) fashion coup de foudre, i.e. feeling your breath get caught in your lungs from the get-go, which, I suppose, is what love at first sight feels like, b) what I Pinned most on the dedicated board I created for the sake of convenience. I'm more of a Tumblr kinda guy, but Pinterest is great for aforementioned runway images and street style looks. But back to the trinity of to-be-tried and tested (and, in a parallel universe, purchased) collections my fashion fanny got wet for.
Images via style.com
My personal bar was set quite high for the remainder of the shows after witnessing the great opening act that was Topman Design. While neutral and monochrome stripes (reminiscent of this season's Gucci) and candy-coloured pastels shared in the limelight of the SS16 collection, the punkier looks ticked some well-loved boxes in my books. Especially after having read Viv Albertine's autobiography, which I bought despite my ignorance about punk music, based solely on a certain proclivity for the sartorial sensibilities of the subculture, the Manchester-meets-The Clash vibes* resonating in the above four looks secured a place in my personal top three shows of the season.
Badges and logos on tops, bottoms and outerwear are super-sized, as are the trousers themselves. At the other end of the spectrum, soft neutrals and pastels juxtapose the edgy-cool counterparts of the line-up. Next summer, you're either buying ice-cream for the neighbourhood children, or stealing it from them.
* This probably only makes sense in my head and is most likely a crock of ignorant, uncultured shit so apologies to any musical puritans/sociologists who have chanced upon this blog post. May you throw the first stone.
Jonathan Anderson's fingers are cranking up my interest knob so high that I fear my ears might bleed.* His aesthetic melds a very practical approach to clothing (choosing to eschew fashion as an art form) with the increasingly important gender discourse that has marked 2015 and which the fashion industry has picked up on quite fervently – though lamentably, in some cases, as more of a trend than a political message. From the Agender pop-up shop at Selfridges, to the increase in trans visibility in the modelling world, Anderson is writing another chapter in what was once known as androgyny and is now, perhaps more accurately, described as gender fluidity.
The collection reflects the future as envisioned in the past – think Futurism, 2001: A Space Odyssey and Barbarella. The looser pant reigns supreme once again, in a cropped length which I personally favour seeing as ballooning hemlines do a number on my height. Indigo blue denim is paired with cherry-red Dorothy shoes and ivory whites and skin-coloured non-tops. Yes, non-tops are a thing now.
* It is 3:09am and my metaphors are going to shit. I should tone the swearing down too at this point.
Images via fashionising.com
I might be going off on a tangent here, but I fear I might make a terrible parent due to rampant favouritism. Instead of delivering the most diverse perspective of the show, I have instead decided to collate three variations of the same look in different colourways, the same pattern in a head-to-toe reiteration and bare arms across the board. Then again, this is a personal style blog so I have to reflect my personal taste. For more looks I was partial to from this collection, visit the aforementioned Pinterest board.
I have never taken much notice of Xander Zhou before this season, and that is a failure on my part. I remember back in the Nineties, when fashion had already appropriated Orientalism as a trend. This year the Met Gala celebrated 'China: Through The Looking Glass' and Vogue Italia, taking the cue, has released its China Issue for June 2015. It seems the Year of the Dragon is upon us, but where do we toe the line with cultural appropriation and when do we let it slide? More issues than Vogue, as they say.
Clockwise, from top left:
Agi & Sam, Alexander McQueen, Casely-Hayford, Charles Jeffrey at Fashion East, CMMN SWDN, Margaret Howell
Other favourite individual titbits from LC:M. You can't see it very well, but there's a dungaree flap secured around the waist with a skinny belt at the bottom left. All I can say is – AHEM.
Fashion write-ups are hard.